Travis Taddeo has always been one of my favourite Canadian designers. This kid has been doing sportsluxe before everyone else jumped on the bandwagon and he does it well. Very well. For SS2014 he has discovered patterns yet maintained his street cred sporstluxe aesthetic. My personal favourites: laser cut leather shirting, the short sleeve sweatshirts and all of the shorts.
HD HOMME has built a brand on slick yet well tailored suiting, but what I found refreshing this season at WMCFW was the inclusion of more casual pieces. Well casual luxury, this isn’t your average hanging around the house type of casual, unless you’re Tom Ford. Runway highlights, for me, included the series of mesh jackets – from bomber to trench, rose printed swim shorts and the polka dot lounge wear.
If you are like me, then you silently mourn the loss of Ann Demeulemeester and her label from the fashion industry. Now we can take solace in the fact that she has published an iconic black book that chronicles the visual history of Ann Demeulemeester‘s contributions to the world of fashion. The Flemish designer has been an intellectual touch point for years in fashion. She is known for her sleek and essential touches, her devotion to form and construction. I always admired her approach to fashion, it was always achingly beautiful with a dark side; she always pushed convention and form through the use of deconstruction/reconstruction. Ann was an influential part of the Antwerp Six, a group of creative minds (including Dries van Noten and Walter van Beirendonck) who have deeply influenced global fashion for more than a decade. Demeulemeester founded her label in 1985 but after almost 20 years of successful, recently stepped down.The new tome tells her story and represents the perfect incarnation of her signature style. It looks and feels sacred, with pages so thin the images can be seen on both sides of each sheet. Just like her approach to fashion, this is a truly delicate beauty. Every page is printed only on one side. The fragility of the paper makes this a book one cannot race through – it sets the pace of the reader, creating a uniquely singular reading experience. In sharp contrast, the book is large and heavy; while the inside feels starkly white, the outside is blackest black. This is Demeulemeester. This is a must have for the intellectual fashion lover.
I have never been a huge fan of too much matching when it comes to interior design; the idea of a matching bedroom set abhors me. But I may just be okay with a completely matching office thanks to G-Star Raw and their Prouvé reinterpretations. It’s an early modernist dream in army green.
The whole collection is constructed from steel and solid timber, finished in leather and premium fabrics. The full Prouvé RAW: Office Edition collection of 11 pieces will be available from G-Star and Vitra beginning April 2015.
I was fortunate enough to discover the brand Blanc De Noir at a recent TFI event during WMCFW and fell for their leather. Hard. I appreciate their design approach to otherwise ordinary objects, redesigning them in luxe leathers. Although this approach is not new, in fact, it’s the founding principle of many designers with intellectually approaches to fashion (ie Jil Sander or CDG). But BdN offers a much more affordable option and the bags are made in Canada.
The Bloor Tote is a remaking of a classic paper shopper bag but in luxe leather, $340
The Cumberland Clutch feels like a reinterpretation of an over-sized old school paper lunch bag. Laid back luxe, $200.
The Spadina Shopper is the luxe reinterpretation of a classic plastic grocery bag, $280.
Shiny shoes always make me happy. Yes, they are obnoxiously shiny but that is the beauty. This series, made by Luke Grant Miller, are hand-made to an exceptional quality featuring a highly reflective gold, chrome or holographic metallic finish, black insole and natural brown leather sole. GBP 340.00 but he is running a twitter discount right now so follow him.
Christopher Bates showed another solid menswear collection for SS2015, introducing tailored short shorts into his wheelhouse. Lessons to glean from this collection:
- Men shouldn’t be afraid of monochromatic dressing – it can look sleek and modern.
- Men can wear short shorts – just make sure you have great legs.
All photos: George Pimentel