If you haven’t heard of Stutterheim by now you have been living under a rock. With the release of their collaboration with Jay-Z and Barney’s, the launch of their installation and line at Dover Street Market, and… Yet they have still found the time to put together a stunning collection for the Spring/Summer 2014 season. And even for a classic minimalist, a yellow raincoat is a menswear staple (don’t worry ladies, they make sizes for you too). I am a big fan of Stutterheim, why? Because they still work in oilcloth and make quality, classic raincoats. I will admit that they are pricey if you are used to buying your nylon raincoats made in developing countries in mass factories. Have I sold you yet? Read on for the Stutterheim story.
Alexander Stutterheim launched the company after finding an old raincoat his grandfather (a fisherman based in Stockholm) used to wear – a classic cut made from oilcloth (not gortex). Here’s his story:
After my discovery, I went out to buy a piece of oilcloth. I put it on the kitchen floor and cut out a design using the old coat as a pattern. I showed the sample to a couple of friends. And after some improvements, there it was – the 60‘s raincoat from the archipelago, updated to fit the modern man and woman.
I brought the prototype to the last standing textile factory in Sweden – in the small town of Borås – since rainwear has been engulfed by the sportswear industry and production has moved to low cost-countries far away. As soon as I met the manager, Johan Käll and the seamstresses Birgitta and Lena, I knew they were the right people. A perfect match. With their skills, craftsmanship and great attention to materials and detail we realised our raincoats should be handmade. A great way to honour my granddad’s durable and practical raincoat.
And there it was. The coat. With all its seams taped and sealed. In the very best quality. Handmade and with a discreet, classical cut. The first 200 coats – Arholma Svart – were made and sold in my apartment. Each coat was signed and numbered by the seamstress (they still are) to really make sure the quality matched the very highest of standards.
images courtesy of Stutterheim